Nerello Mascalese

The room-temperature rule was written for stone-walled rooms and fireplace warmth. Modern kitchens have made it a quiet disservice to every bottle of Gamay sitting on the counter.

Etna’s wines have earned comparisons to Burgundy — not for their flavor, which belongs entirely to the volcano, but for the precision of a classification system that maps each lava flow to a distinct wine. An introduction to the contrada revolution.